The Soaring Prices of Nishijin Textiles and Gold

The ‘gold thread’ essential to Nishijin weaving.

At Nishijin Okamoto, we continue to weave Nishijin-ori Kinran Brocade, which makes extensive use of ‘real gold thread,’ a rare commodity even in Japan. Our Nishijin-ori Kinran Brocade with real gold thread is delivered with a ‘real gold certificate’ issued by the Nishijin Textile Industry Association, which guarantees that real gold thread has been used.

However, this ‘Nishijin-ori Kinran Brocade with real gold thread’ is now in danger of disappearing.

The Impact of Rising Gold Prices on Traditional Crafts | The Future of Nishijin Textiles

Please refer to the following graph showing the price of gold from 1978 to 2024.

As reported, the rise in gold prices shows no signs of stopping. Gold prices have been rising at an astonishing rate in recent years. Nikkei Shimbun: Gold continues to trade at record highs; are there any blind spots?

• 1978: 1,500 yen range
• 2020: 6,000 yen range
• 2023: 9,000 yen range
• 2025 (current): Over 17,000 yen

The main factors behind the rise in gold prices are as follows.

• Global geopolitical uncertainty: Geopolitical risks and tensions in international relations have increased interest in gold as a safe-haven asset.
• Inflation hedge: Gold is being chosen as a means to offset the decline in the value of cash due to inflation.
• Central bank gold purchases: An increasing number of countries are shifting part of their foreign exchange reserves to gold, driving up demand for gold.
• Impact of the COVID-19 pandemic: Gold demand has surged amid economic uncertainty.
• Impact of yen weakness: Historical yen weakness is also a contributing factor to rising gold prices.

The impact of rising gold prices on Nishijin-ori Kinran Brocade

We frequently use ‘hand-pressed gold thread,’ which is made by applying lacquer to Japanese paper, affixing gold leaf, cutting it into thin strips, and wrapping the strips around a core thread. Gold thread is not merely decorative. It is an important element that determines the ‘quality’ of a woven fabric and symbolises the skill and aesthetic sense of the craftsmen who make it.

You can view how to make traditional gold leaf and gold thread at the following URL.

However, the surge in gold prices is having a serious impact on traditional craft production sites that use real gold, including Nishijin weaving.

• The cost of purchasing gold thread has more than doubled, putting pressure on production costs.
• It is difficult to pass on price increases to customers when selling fabrics, resulting in a decrease in profit margins.
• We are finding it increasingly difficult to maintain production as there are no suitable alternatives to gold thread.

In order to preserve tradition, we are currently facing a dilemma. When should we buy gold thread? Should we buy in bulk? However, although buying in bulk is good for the gold thread shop in the short term, buying consistently is the most stable option, so buying in bulk will not necessarily be good for the gold and silver thread industry in the long run.

Types of gold thread used in Nishijin-ori Kinran Brocade

Gold leaf and lacquered wood and hand-pressed (Honkin Urushiji Teoshi Ichikake)

We produce genuine gold leaf in Ishikawa Prefecture. Gold leaf is made by sandwiching gold between paper and hammering it thousands of times to stretch it out. The gold purity of the 4-grade gold leaf we use is 94.438%. Gold with a purity of 99.9% or higher is referred to as 24-karat gold (24K, K24).Why not 24-karat gold? I have been told that 24-karat gold is too soft to be easily made into thin gold leaf. We apply lacquer to paper, apply the gold leaf, and cut it into short threads, which are called ‘genuine gold leaf threads.’ These threads are then wound around a core to create ‘genuine gold threads.’ At our company, we typically use genuine gold threads made from 4-grade gold leaf. As an aside, it is said that the Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji Temple) uses 4-grade gold leaf.

Vapour-deposited gold thread

Gold is vapour-deposited onto polyester film to form a coating, which is then slit into thin strips and spun into yarn. Although the amount of gold used in the product itself is minimal, the vapour-deposition process requires more than three times the amount of gold, making it a highly labour-intensive process. For gold yarn, the polyester film is backed with paper. The core yarn is 100 denier or 120 denier and forms a single strand. We occasionally use this material upon customer request.

Fake gold thread

This is a cheaper version of the above-mentioned vapor-deposited gold thread. It is made by vapor-depositing silver or aluminium onto polyester film, and the fake gold thread we use has paper attached to the back. Gold colouring is applied to the opposite side of the film, or gold colouring is applied to the polyester film in advance to make it look like gold thread. There are many types of this, ranging from cheap-looking gold thread to gold thread that looks like real gold.

Our company uses silver-plated imitation gold thread for almost all of our power loom products. We clearly indicate which products are made with real gold.

Why we still weave Nishijin textiles with pure gold thread

Why do we continue to use real gold thread in our Nishijin textiles? It is because the ‘genuine brilliance’ touches the hearts of those who see it.

• Gold does not oxidise or deteriorate, so it continues to shine forever. This can be seen in burial items such as pyramids and ancient tombs.
• The reflection of light gives textiles a sense of depth and three-dimensionality. The reflection of gold can also be used as a reflector (reflective board) in dark rooms, enhancing the sacred atmosphere of ceremonies and other events.
• It is said that wearing gold enriches the mind and brings a sense of security and satisfaction, which is why it has been loved since ancient times.

Weaving Nishijin-ori Kinran Brocade with pure gold thread is not merely decorative, but an act that weaves culture and spirituality into the fabric.

We are not gold appraisers. However, there is a difference between real gold and imitation gold. The imitation gold thread we use at our company is of high quality and is comparable to real gold, but there is still a difference between real gold and imitation gold thread. This difference cannot be quantified or expressed in words. Perhaps it is a sense that comes from years of experience.

What we can do now to preserve Nishijin-ori Kinran Brocade

In order to overcome the situation of price increases for traditional gold thread due to the ‘rise in gold prices,’ we have begun several challenges.

• Continue to promote Nishijin-ori Kinran Brocade on social media (Instagram, Red Note, WeChat, etc.) to overseas markets.
• Conduct research on designs that maintain beauty while reducing the amount of gold thread used.
• Strengthen storytelling that conveys the value of gold thread.
• Promote understanding of product value by communicating fluctuations in the price of gold.

We believe that we must continue to solve various problems caused by the rise in gold prices in areas other than weaving, just as we have done in the past, without being defeated by the rise in gold prices.

Dear readers, it is your empathy that supports the tradition of Nishijin weaving.

Nishijin-ori is not just a piece of cloth. It is made from a variety of materials and complex weaving techniques, and it embodies the skills and hearts of many artisans, as well as a sense of beauty that has been passed down through the ages. We hope that the brilliance of the gold thread will continue into the future. Please listen to our challenge. And if you would like, please take it in your hands and feel its brilliance for yourself.

This is proof that we use gold thread made from gold foil with a purity of 94.438%.

If you would like to support our endeavours, please follow us on social media for the latest information.