We will be writing a two-part series on the history and characteristics of Nishijin Ori.
This first article is titled “The History and Characteristics of Nishijin Ori: Part A”. The next article will be “The History and Characteristics of Nishijin Ori: Part B“.
What is Nishijin weaving?
Nishijin Ori is a luxurious textile produced by weavers who are members of the Nishijin Textile Industry Association.
The northwestern area of Kyoto (Kamigyo and Kita wards) has been a hub for textile manufacturers since the Heian period, and this region became known as “Nishijin.”
The History and Characteristics of Nishijin Ori
Nishijin Ori began its journey as a luxurious textile in Kyoto, thanks to silk weaving techniques that arrived from Tang China during the Kofun period. The name “Nishijin” originated during the Onin War in the Muromachi period when the Western Army, led by General Sozen Yamana, established their camp in the area. Hence, the name “Nishijin” was coined, with General Katsumoto Hosokawa leading the Eastern Army.
On February 26, 1976, Nishijin Ori was designated as a traditional craft of Japan. Even today, the weavers of Nishijin Ori continue to create textiles that reflect their individual artistry.
Characteristics and Products of Nishijin Ori
Nishijin Ori is distinguished by its variety of weaving techniques. Because the threads are dyed before weaving, the resulting textiles are intricate and rich.
Below are the 12 recognized techniques and products of Nishijin Ori.
- Tsume-Gaki Hon Tsuzure-Ori: This technique involves using fingers filed into a saw-tooth shape to push the weft threads together, creating intricate patterns without relying on punch card data.
- Tate-Nishiki: The patterns and ground are created using warp threads.
- Yoko-Nishiki: Rich patterns are produced by combining various weft threads. (Example of our textiles here)
- Donsu (Damask): A thick, lustrous satin weave.
- Shuchin: Uses weft threads to create various patterns on the thick, lustrous Donsu base. (Example of our textiles here)
- Shoha: Both warp and weft threads are twisted, producing intricate patterns with the weft.
- Futsu: By varying the colors of the warp and weft threads, identical patterns appear in opposite colors on either side, known as reversible weave.
- Mojiri-Ori: A coarse weave where two warp threads are twisted together with the weft, creating transparent fabrics such as Ro, Sha, and Ra.
- Hon Shibo-Ori: A textile in which twist yarns are manipulated to create visible grain patterns.
- Velvet: A pile weave known as tennge, traditionally cut by hand in Nishijin.
- Kasuri: Textiles using warp and weft threads dyed to create patterns when woven.
- Tsumugi: A textile with a unique texture created using slub yarns.
- One of the notable features of Nishijin Ori is the development of various weaving techniques. By dyeing the threads before weaving, the textiles produced are more complex and heavier than those created using the common post-dyeing method. From plain weaves to intricate gauze, Nishijin Ori encompasses a wide range of structures. The threads used vary from synthetic fibers, cotton, silk, to advanced fibers, and designs range from simple to elaborate.
“Nishijin” and “Nishijin Ori” are protected by registered trademarks owned by the Nishijin Textile Industry Association.
Nishijin Ori is a cultural and technical marvel of Japan. By learning about its production process and history, one can better appreciate its allure. Although these textiles are rarely available on the general market, their beauty and technical sophistication continue to be loved by many. We hope you will have the opportunity to see these textiles in person.
Next time, we will delve into “The History and Characteristics of Nishijin Ori: Part B“.
