Traditional Japanese Techniques
Nishijin Kinran Brocade, and Genuine Silver Leaf Pearl Powder Patterned Hikibaku
Nishijin Weaving is a traditional Japanese craft, and the area known as Nishijin has a long history as a textile production region, dating back to the Heian period.
“The Tale of Genji” Chapter Seven: The Maple Feast
What is Nishijin Weaving, Kinran, and Genuine Silver Leaf Pearl Powder Patterned Hikibaku?
Nishijin brocade Kinran is an advanced textile technique that has evolved since the Heian period. Considered the mainstream of Nishijin weaving, Nishijin brocade Kinran has been cherished for adorning the solemnity of shrines and temples, as well as for the clothing and accessories of the wealthy.
One of its attractions lies in the luxuriousness woven with gold and silver threads made from washi paper. Especially, the weaving technique using “karami ito” in red to secure the gold and Hikibaku threads is an ingenious method to enhance the brilliance of the gold while providing practicality.
Our company is exploring new patterned Hikibaku by introducing new dynamic expressions to Hikibaku, such as colouring with lacquer and using genuine silver leaf and pearl powder.
Please watch the video below to see the process of making Hikibaku.
What is Vermilion Karami Thread?
As the name suggests, Nishijin brocade Kinran is characterised by its golden colour, and the “red Karami” technique was devised to beautifully express this gold. This method uses very fine red threads to secure gold foil and gold threads.
The red Karami threads are very fine and do not obstruct the golden colour, even when overlaid.
In our case, the standard warp thread thickness is “21/2 twin (21 denier, 2-ply)” or “21/3 twin (21 denier, 3-ply),” but the Karami threads are “21 single threads (21 denier, 1-ply) of raw silk (unrefined),” which are half or a third the thickness of regular warp threads. This technique allows the creation of textiles that do not diminish the brilliance of the gold.
Below is a photo of the vermilion Karami threads.
When viewed up close, the threads become visible, but from a distance, they are not noticeable.
- Left: Overview photo
- Centre: Enlarged photo
- Right: Further enlarged (The vermilion thread securing the gold foil threads, this is the vermilion Karami thread.)
The Position of Vermilion Karami Threads on the Loom
The vermilion Karami threads are positioned above the main coloured warp threads of the fabric. These vermilion Karami threads, also known as “upper warp,” are set on the loom separately from the main warp threads.
Expressing Tanka through Nishijin Kinran brocade silk fabrics
I have passionately explained the structure of the textile, but let’s get back to the main topic.
Using genuine silver leaf pearl powder patterned Hikibaku, we have expressed a scene from Chapter Seven of “The Tale of Genji,” the “Maple Feast,” where Genji’s poem of a love letter to Fujitsubo is depicted: “In my sorrow, although I cannot dance, I waved my sleeve. Did you notice my feelings?”
The tanka is expressed in cursive script and represents the song performed during the Seigaiha (Blue Ocean Waves) dance, illustrated with Seigaiha patterns and mist imagery evoking Kyoto’s Higashiyama. Below are the crest design diagrams. The right represents the upper phrase, and the left represents the lower phrase.
Here is the woven silk fabric. The right side shows the upper phrase, and the left side shows the lower phrase.
The Allure of Handcrafted Nishijin Kinran Brocade Patterned Hikibaku
The allure of patterned Hikibaku lies in its overwhelming impact and the metallic beauty created by using foil.
This charm, which cannot be fully conveyed without seeing it in person, is a technology that has existed since ancient times, as seen in the gold thread fabrics stored in the Shosoin. Yet, it remains a mysterious technique not extensively documented in books.
The technique of creating Hikibaku from washi paper, lacquer, and gold leaf, or patterned Hikibaku, is fundamental to Nishijin Kinran Brocade. Hikibaku requires four steps: the person making the washi paper, the person applying the lacquer, the person attaching the gold leaf or decorating the patterns, and the person cutting the washi paper into threads. It is a short and flat thread that cannot be made if even one person is missing.
The following video provides a detailed introduction to the process of making Hikibaku.
Genuine Silver Leaf Hikibaku
Genuine Silver Leaf Hikibaku is made by applying lacquer to washi paper, attaching gold leaf, and then cutting it. Our company uses 23-carat gold leaf from Noto.
Patterned Hikibaku
Patterned Hikibaku is decorated by drawing patterns with lacquer or other paints on washi paper, then adorned with genuine silver leaf and pearl powder. This technique, which allows for freehand drawing, can be diversified according to the customer’s preferences.
To reproduce the patterns, it is necessary to follow the sequence of the patterns and use the technique of “jun-biki” (sequential pulling). Our company is the only one selling it to the general public in the Nishijin Kinran Brocade width (including the ears, about 70 cm).
We have depicted a moment from Heian literature using a Jacquard weave, incorporating Hikibaku, and crafted it into a folding screen and hanging scroll.
Folding Screen and Hanging Scroll
Made with Nishijin Kinran Brocade, Pearl Powder, and Genuine Silver Leaf Patterned Hikibaku
Nishijin Kinran Brocade Hikibaku Folding Screen
- Weaving: Okamoto Orimono Co., Ltd
- Folding Screen Crafting: Kitamura Shougetudou
Nishijin Kinran Brocade Hikibaku Hanging Scroll
- Weaving: Okamoto Orimono Co., Ltd
- Hanging Scroll Crafting: Kyoto Hyogu Onosawa
We would be delighted if you could experience the charm of these silk textile products firsthand.
Available for purchase at our online store.
